Steamed Vietnamese tilapia with spicy dip (cá hấp xốt cay)

ietnam swept me off my feet with its culinary sophistication. A Vietnamese roadside hawker probably uses more types of herbs than a chef in a posh Western restaurant. And I really admire how the Vietnamese use chilis: just to let some spiciness linger in the background, bringing out the taste of the main ingredients.

This tilapia was grown in Vietnam so it deserves to be cooked according to the customs of its country of origin. The only foreign influence I allow is the traditional Japanese marinade for white fish. Mix equal shares of shoyu, sake and mirin and let the fish marinate for at least half an hour to enhance its natural flavour.

Then I lace a bamboo sieve with:

• circles of leek (preferably the white part)
  
• slices of carrots
• julienned celery root
• half-circles of daikon
• half-circles of topinambour (Jerusalem artichoke)
• slices of lotus root
• julienned shiitake
  

Do not stuff them too tightly, allow for the steam to get through later. Put tougher veggies like topinambour or carrots close to the bottom. Top it all with filets of white fish. Give it a good grind of black pepper.

Bring 5cm of water in a pot to boil, add a stock of lemon grass chopped, top it with the bamboo sieve. Don't forget to put the lid on!

While it all is steaming away - it takes just 5-7 minutes, really, prepare the dip:

• grated ginger, abt. 2 inches;
• one clove of garlic, crushed;
• one chilli pepper, finely chopped;
• juice of one lime;
• a tablespoonful of palm sugar;
• 3 tablespoonfuls of fish sauce
• 2 tablespoonfuls of water
  

Mix it all well until the sugar dissolves completely.

Serve with steamed rice and dry white wine or lemon grass tea.