What's in a name: bak kut teh (肉骨茶)

My first time in Kuala Lumpur I had a little shock. On every street there would be a very busy no-frills café with a huge Chinese sign saying "Meat and bone tea". It sounded so cannibalistic to a simple Northern lad like yours truly, it took my friend Ani some effort to drag me into one.

Bak kut teh was invented in Malaysia in the 19th century to supplement the meagre diet of Chinese coolies. Nowadays, people eat itmore for the savoury taste than for the nutrient kick.

It is never cold in Malaysia but I discovered that bak kut teh can brighten up a gloomy Dutch winter day like nothing else. The recipe is simple, you will need:

• 700g pork ribs (I use calf ribs as a more health-conscious choice)
• 2 litres of cold water
• one head of garlic unpeeled, broken down into cloves
  
• 5-6 aniseeds
• 2-3 quills of cinnamon
• 1-2 tablespoonfuls of danggui
• 5-6 cloves
• a teaspoonful of whole white peppers (that will make it Teochew style)
  

Bring it all to boil, then simmer for 30-40 minutes. Skim the fat and froth. Add soya sauce to taste.