Abu Zaad@Edgware Road, London

bona fide member of the US Department of State's Axis of Evil, Syria is an ancient country in the Fertile Crescent that boasts a fine indigenous cuisine. It is also home to world's oldest continuously inhabited city, Damascus, as well as, perhaps, most hospitable and genuinely friendly people you will meet in this part of the Universe.

From my observations, Syrian restaurants offer only a fraction of the variety of Syrian home-made dishes but I yet have to happen upon any poorly cooked one. We (my friends Kirill and Sasha as well as yours truly) wondered into Abu Zaad on Edgware Road, near Marble Arch because it looked good. It is neither deliberately exotic, like typical tourist traps where food is bland and forgettable, nor is it homely and grotty like many an ethnic eatery, where food may be good but you keep asking yourself if the kitchen is as grimy as the dining area. It is also not like one of those trendy place where they use an "ethnic theme" as an excuse to overcharge you in a bid to redeem the interior designer's outrageous fee.

Abu Zaad looks recognisably Arab yet definitely 21st century. It is full of "right (i.e., Arab-looking) people", which also tipped the balance in its favour as we were peeping in from the cold outside. Our haunch was right.

We picked the Holy Trinity of Levantine starters - tabouleh (تبولة), moutabal (متبل) and hommous (حمّص) - for our platter (£6). Moutabal is known as baba ganoush outside Syria. In Syria, however, ordering baba ganoush will land you an aubergine and green pepper salad sprinkled with coriander and lemon juice.

Kibbeh (كبة) is a quintessential Levantine snack - a deep-fried bulgur croquette stuffed with minced beef, pine nuts, mashed onions and herbs. I can't help but wince when I hear "deep-fried" but these did not have a wee dram o' fat between the four of them. The menu specifies that their kibbeh (£3.75) is shamieh, that is, Damascene. Authenticity closely guarded.

Mixed grill (مشاوي مشكلة) is always a good way to try a bit of major mains (£9.50). Lamb and chicken cubes marinated in olive oil and lemon juice came with a skewer of spicy kabab halabi (kebab Aleppo style), all juicy, smokey and flavourful. The grilled tomato was cooked to perfection: with taut charred skin and melting inside.


By the time we finished the mains we were stuffed to the rafters but we could not resist the temptation to sample Syrian desserts.

Halawet Al-Jeben (حلاوة الجبن) on the left is a specialty of Hama, Syria. It is prepared from semolina, Ackawi cheese, sugar syrup and orange blossom water, there are two versions: stuffed with qashta - a kind of Middle Eastern mascarpone, and plain without qashta.

Umm Ali (ام علي) on the right is a trademark Egptian dessert made from filo pastry, milk, sugar and raisins. Umm Ali was the wife of a ruler from the Ayyubid dynasty. Her rival Shagaret El Dorr was his second wife. When he died, Shagaret El Dorr arranged for Umm Ali to be murdered by her servants, and to celebrate, she distributed bread with milk and honey.

The coffee was superb, strong and aromatic even though I could only take a sip - caffeine after 3PM gives me insomnia until the next morning. I hope next time I will be able to gather enough a crowd to order a whole lamb for 160 quid, for the Lawrence of Arabia kind of experience.

Pro's: Authentic Syrian food at very reasonable prices. Friendly service. Great desserts.
Con's: A bit crowded - but then again, it's a sign of popularity.
In a nutshell: Highly recommended.

Abu Zaad
128 Edgware Road, London, W2 2DZ
Tube: Marble Arch