Satay Bar & Restaurant: hip dining Brixton style

hen I tell people I live in Brixton, more often than not I get some brow play and disparaging grunts. It seems like the riots of the 80s have left an indelible scar on Londoners' psyche. I guess I am lucky enough to have never witnessed Brixton in its bad days. I moved here as wealth trickling south of the river had triggered inevitable gentrification of this neighbourhood with huge swathes of middle class houses, a cosmopolitan food market and a Zone 2 station on London's fastest Tube line.

This combination of unabated multiculturalism, ease of access and newfangled affluence has sprouted a mighty string of trendy eateries and night entertainment venues. Satay Far East Bar and Restaurant located a short walk from the station on Coldharbour Lane is a good ambassador of this new Brixton. Through its wall-size windows you can see a United Colours of Benetton mix of hip people chatting over neat bowls of exotic food or nursing fancy-looking cocktails to the beat of cool lounge music. No hoodies or baseball caps allowed inside but there is no fuddy-duddy dress code as in "trying to be posh" joints either: it is a picture perfect of the 21st century London's with-itness, urban, wordly and comfortable in its own skin.


Now down to the grub.

Saigon Samosas (£3.90) - three triangular prawn spring rolls spruced up with fresh coriander and holy basil. Perhaps the best of the deep-fried variety that I have tasted in London.

Prawn Spring Rolls (£3.50) - deep-fried food is not my favourite as it seems to absorb all the burnt oil but the prawn inside was nicely marinated and juicy. Wouldn't fall over myself for the crust though.

Jungle Curry (£4.80) - rather expertly cooked Thai Northeast's own gaeng paa. The flavour was just right, although I suspect derived from packaged curry paste. Thumbs up: spicy as it should be. Thumbs down: broccoli and carrots.

Seafood Combo (£5.50) - herby and fiery with nice chunks of fresh tasting seafood. Although just a generic stir-fry, well done anyway!

Prawn Samba Sambal (£5.50) - I love Indonesian sambals but this one was bland, salty and watery, although smelling vaguely of the correct ingredients. Was the cook broken-hearted and weeped over my plate?

Wings of Fire (£5.50) -Brixton's take on Louisiana Spicy Hot Wings just as they should be: burning hot and crunchy on the outside, sweet and juicy inside. The volume was enough to share some between our whole party but chilli sauce was really superfluous.

Fiery Fries (£3.00) - these awesome buggers deserve a special mention. Normally, I would be the last person to be seen eating French fries but I make an exception for Satay's creation. Thick, grease-free and dusted in chilli powder, they are as close to the Ultimate Potato Dish as can be! Who needs ketchup with that?

Although the prices are rather low - even more so during lunch and happy hours - there is a catch. You have to order sides separately: £1.80 for plain rice, £2.20 for coconut. Lunch specials include rice and are a great value.

I had to laugh reading a review of this place by a lady who had to get sloshed to work up enough courage to come to Brixton and have a meal of which she does not seem to have remembered much. I pray that she will muster enough guts to come again and revel in the hipness of the latter-day Brixton.

Pro's: Hip relaxed ambiance. Food covering the entire scope of my academic research: from Japan to Indonesia.

Con's: Portions summat on the smaller side.

In a nutshell: The essence of Brixton: multi-culti dining with a multi-culti crowd.

Satay Bar & Restaurant
447 Coldharbour Lane
SW9 8LP London